Overview
   Cashmere Goats
   Babydoll Sheep
Health Care/Feeding Goats
   Cashmere Goats
   Babydoll Sheep
Facilities/ Fencing:
   Cashmere Goats
   Babydoll Sheep

Cashmere is the “gold standard” to which other fibers are compared. It is the soft undercoat produced by goats-- and yes, goats are the only animals which produce cashmere. It was first discovered on wild goats in the Indian state of Kashmir. Large numbers of cashmere producing goats can now be found in Mongolia, China, Australia and New Zealand. Cashmere goats were first imported into the US from Australia in the late 1980’s and some have been crossed with Spanish breeds of meat goats from Texas to add to the genetic diversity of the American lines.

In order for fiber to be classed as cashmere it must be under 19 microns in diameter, be greater than 1 ¼ inch long and have good style (crimp). Cashmere grows on the goats from summer until late winter when they begin to shed. It can be harvested from the animal by combing or shearing. Less guard hair (straight, coarse, top coat of goat) will be collected by combing, but regardless of harvesting method, cashmere must be dehaired to remove the guard hair before it can be used for spinning and yarn. Cashmere can be dehaired by hand, but this is extremely time consuming and impractical for large amounts of fiber. Luckily, over the past year many small minimills have started in the US and Canada which provide this service.

Cashmere goats have the additional advantage of being a multi-purpose animal. They are valued for their meat which is increasingly being sought after in all regions of the US. They also make excellent weed eaters. They prefer weeds, trees, and multiflora roses over clover and grass and are good climbers enabling them to reach steep areas not accessible by machinery. Last but certainly not least, their unique personalities make them excellent pets and companion animals. However as with most livestock, goats are herd animals and will not be happy by themselves.

Southdown Babydoll sheep are an old English breed of sheep originally produced for their small size, hardiness, and docile demeanor. They came to the US from England in the early 1800’s. These small sheep were then crossbred with other larger breeds of sheep to increase size, muscling, and carcass value. The breed was nearly forgotten in the US until the 1980s when Robert Moch started searching for remaining herds which still fit the Olde English Southdown Sheep characteristics. A small number of these sheep were found and a registry started. The registry was closed after a few years and these animals are the “stock” from which all current babydolls in the US originated. Offspring from theses animals can still be registered with the “Babydoll” Association.

Babydoll sheep can be no larger than 24” at the shoulders. In addition to their small size, they are bred for docile temperaments and adorable teddybear faces that always seem to be smiling. They produce medium diameter wool of short staple length (approx 2 “) that is desirable for use by spinners to produce fine yarns. They need to be sheared one time per year in early spring. These sheep are easily handled by young or not so young herdsmen. Other advantages of this smaller breed of sheep are that they require small amounts of grazing area and make good lawn mowers, lane eaters, and work well at keeping the grass down in mature orchards. Because of their laid back temperament, they make excellent pets and work well in petting zoos and as therapy animals.

Cashmere goats require a few shots consisting of a yearly CD+T injection as well as a BoSe injection to prevent selenium deficiency and enhance skin and coat condition. We also give rabies injections because our animals are out on pasture and could be potentially exposed to a wild animal infected by rabies.

The goats are wormed 3-4 times per year, varying between Ivermectin and Safeguard wormers to try and decrease worm resistance to either medication.

Hooves need to be trimmed at least twice each year, but since they grow very quickly, a more rigorous schedule (3-4x per year) is optimal.

The goats do well on pasture when allowed to “free-range” with access to wooded as well as weedy areas. In the winter months, supplementing with a little grain and good quality hay is adequate. Increasing the amount of grain is necessary for does in the last months of pregnancy and during lactation. We generally feed a little grain year round as a way of checking on the animals and to keep them friendly.

Continuous access to fresh water and a granular form of salt/trace mineral mix is essential. Salt block licks work OK, but the animal will not be able to lick enough trace minerals from a block to be adequate.

The health care requirements for babydolls are nearly identical to that already stated for the goats.

Some exceptions being that- surprise!- unlike other sheep breeds, the hooves of babydolls are very strong and free of problems. Trimming 2 times per year is all that is necessary. The same shots and worming are required.

Some cautions for sheep vs goats would be to make sure the sheep only receive trace mineral mix formulated specifically for sheep—copper requirements are less for sheep than for goats and other livestock and copper toxicity in sheep can occur.

Good grass is all the feed required for babydolls throughout most of the year. Supplemental hay is needed during the cold winter months as well as small amounts of grain during late pregnancy and early lactation.

Free access to clean water and trace minerals is also necessary. We feed an organic mineral with kelp, diatomaceous earth, sea salt, and other minerals to ensure that each animal is getting all the requirements that they need. They really like the way it tastes over regular mineral mix!

As with most livestock, goats require some type of shelter to guard against harsh winds, summer sun, rain, ice or snow. Run in shelters work fine in pastures and are easily built. A dry floor is also needed and will prevent the development of hoof problems as well as protect newborns from hypothermia. Fencing for goats is a bit of a challenge. They will try to go through or under a fence much more readily than jumping over one. Five wire high tensile electric works well with goats or woven wire fencing with 12” squares to prevent goats from getting their heads stuck. Many existing fences on farms can be adapted to holding goats by running barb wire below boards to prevent climbing under or placing an electric wire 12” above the ground and offset from the permanent fence. If there are holes, the goats will find them.

Again, some type of shelter is necessary for these animals to get in out of the weather. It doesn’t have to be fancy, but should be dry and comfortable.

Fencing is much easier for these sheep than for our goats. Almost any type of fence will contain a babydoll- from a single strand of electric to and old bob-wire fence. Babydolls are pretty happy wherever they are. They do not challenge fences and do not try to climb under or over—it’s wonderful!